What Is Ukai?
Ukai (鵜飼) is a traditional method of fishing using trained cormorant birds, practised on the Nagara River in Gifu City for over 1,300 years. Usho — master cormorant handlers — guide their birds by long leashes as the birds dive to catch ayu (sweetfish). A small ring around each bird's neck prevents it from swallowing larger fish, which are retrieved by the handler.
While Ukai is no longer a primary food source, it has been preserved as a living cultural tradition under the protection of the Imperial Household Agency. Gifu's Ukai masters are officially designated as imperial fishermen — a rare and prestigious title.
When Does Ukai Season Run?
The Ukai season on the Nagara River runs from mid-May through mid-October each year. Performances take place nightly, except during periods of flooding or extremely high water. The full moon nights in August, when the moonlight competes with the torch light, create a particularly atmospheric effect.
- Season opens: Around May 11
- Season closes: October 15
- Performance time: After dark, beginning around 19:45 (times vary by month)
- Cancellations: Performances may be cancelled due to heavy rain or high river levels — check locally on the day
How to Watch Ukai
From a Viewing Boat (Recommended)
The most immersive way to experience Ukai is from one of the traditional wooden yakatabune (roofed pleasure boats) that follow closely behind the fishing procession. Boats depart from the Nagara River embankment in central Gifu City.
- Board your boat in the early evening and enjoy a boxed dinner (bentō) and drinks as dusk falls
- As darkness descends, the fishing boats appear, lit by blazing iron baskets of pine torches at their prows
- Six fishing boats work together in formation; the torchlight attracts the ayu to the surface
- The climax arrives when all six boats come together for the sōgari ukai — a coordinated group fishing finale
Booking: Viewing boat tickets are sold through the Gifu City Tourism Association and local hotels. Advance booking is essential, especially in July and August.
From the Riverbank
It is possible to watch Ukai for free from the public embankment paths along the river, though you'll be further from the action. This is a worthwhile option if boats are fully booked.
The Atmosphere and Setting
Few experiences in Japan are as evocative as watching Ukai on a summer night. The Kinka Mountain rises behind the illuminated Gifu Castle, the torches cast dancing reflections on the dark water, and the calls of the usho to their birds carry across the river. It is simultaneously ancient and immediate — a window into a Japan that has persisted for over a millennium.
Practical Tips for Attending Ukai
- Dress comfortably but bring a light layer — evenings on the river can be cool even in summer
- Insect repellent is advisable for riverside evenings
- Arrive early at the embarkation point — boarding is staggered and early arrivals often get better positions on the boat
- Photography: Torchlight photography requires a camera with good low-light capability; smartphone photos can be surprisingly effective near the torches
- Gifu Station is about a 15-minute walk or a short bus ride from the Nagara River embankment
Other Ukai Sites in Gifu
While Gifu City's Nagara River Ukai is the most famous, cormorant fishing is also practised on the Hida River at Gujo Hachiman and on the Uji River in Kyoto. Gifu's tradition, however, remains the most celebrated and the best-organised for visitors.